Florida

Ned, Faye, Peggy

Pam and Faye

Daytona Beach

West Palm Beach

I know I am late posting the blog but things need to be done and the Internet is not that reliable unless I sit in the restaurant.

This week saw Ernie return to Campbell River. Words cannot express how grateful I am for all his help, experience and friendship. Ernie joined Ken and I in Colombia and helped us navigate her to Grenada. This involved not so nice weather with lightning, water spouts, waves and pirate invested waters. He was with us when Ken had his heart attack, then flew home for Christmas. He knew Genesis and was able to teach me the things I needed to know. Thank you Ernie.

The arrival of Pam began the week of touring around a little. Pam and I headed out in the rental car towards Daytona beach. We got off the I95 and headed to the A1A. The A1A is the road that runs parallel to the shore. We stopped at a beach that is returning back into the wild. It is a turtle nesting area. We walked down to the beach where we observed fishing poles stuck in the sand. We went up to a couple and started asking questions. They were surf fishing. This couple had been coming here for 35 yrs just to fish. He himself had been coming down since he was 18 for spring break and I would guess to say he is in his 70’s now. It became a very interesting story. The fishing like it seems in all places is no longer what it use to be but they still are out there every morning trying to catch some fish.

 My Aunt Peggy and Uncle Ned rent a trailer for the winter months in Daytona so it was time to begin my journey to see family.  Ned and my grandfather are probably the reason for my love of water, unless in previous lives I was a fisherman or something.  Ned is a retired ferry Captain.  His first vehicle was a boat not a car. He would let me be in the wheelhouse and steer the ferry as a teenager, explained the radar and how with that one piece of equipment you could do so much. Well I am grateful for learning my radar as it has brought us through fog, torrential downpours, through heavy traffic areas, away from land and avoidance of electrical storm cells. A marvellous tool.

Peggy and Ned were great hosts and it was great to be with my favourite aunt and uncle again.

I had visited Daytona in 1997 with my Grandmother and Aunt Lynda but things sure have changed. Daytona is best known for the Daytona Speedway. It is huge and a few cars were practising while we were observing it. Ned and Peggy drove us around the area to observe the sights.

The city is historically known as having a beach where the hard packed sand allows motorized vehicles to drive on the beach in restricted areas. This hard packed sand made Daytona Beach a mecca for motor sports.The city is also the headquarters for NASCAR. A lot of the land has been returned to conservation area and the natural dunes are again taking over. Turtles are now on a rise again.

Pam and I headed out for a day of shopping. For those that know me shopping is NOT on my list of things to do.  However, I seem to do alright. The mall is called Festival Flea Market. It is a unique concept; a very large building with small booths. Similar to a flea market but the booths have designer clothes, jewellery etc.   Originally I thought it would be cheaper than regular stores but that would not be the case.

We then went and visited West Palm Beach. The streets were lined with large palm trees and very large homes. Very wealthy people live here.  Upscale tourist area, not the young things walking around in their bathing suits for all to stare at. (Maybe if I looked like them I would feel differently!) This is a very large contrast to the Daytona and Fort Lauderdale beaches.

We then went on the Jungle Queen tour. This is a tourist attraction that takes you by motorized paddle wheeler through the canals of Ft. Lauderdale past the very expensive houses and multimillion dollar mega yachts. Ft. Lauderdale is considered the Venice of the United States with its carved out canal system.  You are then taken to an island where you have an all you can eat BBQ and entertainment.  It was interesting and well worth going to see.

The car will be returned today and the work will begin. They have postponed the boarding of the ship until May 5 (it still could be even later) so I am trying to arrange to have a Captain come and meet me and go over the boat and leave Genesis in his hands to load her. I am going to use the captains that Yacht Path uses to ensure there are not glitches. Hopefully I will be able to return home this weekend sometime.

It has been incredibly frustrating to deal with the company to get any dates but now things seem to be falling in place.

I now must strip the boat down and secure everything for ocean passage.  A daunting job. I will get it done. I look at Genesis and want to cry. I feel like I have neglected the poor girl not making the stainless shine and keeping up with the teak work. It would be fruitless however until she gets home. I vow to make her look good the first opportunity I have.

So there you have a week in a quick blog.

Bahamas Great Bank the Gulf Stream and Florida

Air Boat

Find the Alligator

Beautiful Coral

We departed Andros at 0730 hr with a 27 hr journey ahead of us. We would first follow along side the reef keeping out about a mile hoping to catch some big fish. Sorry to say we did not catch anything worth keeping.

We traveled the Great Bahamas Bank in depths of 10-15 ft. of water. It is hard to get your mind around seeing the coral and sand beneath you and not worry about hitting bottom.

Boat traffic increased as we entered this area, both sailing and power boats. We got into our regular routine of shifts in great anticipation of finally being finished getting Genesis to Florida. I couldn’t sleep much as many thoughts were going through my head. Bitter sweet. Happy to be finishing this journey but knowing that it wasn’t done in the way Ken and I had planned.

We had just one pass to go through. Gun Cays. It is a very narrow passage where you must hug the Gun Cay side as shoaling is on the Cat Cay side. I must have fallen asleep and Ernie decided not to wake me to go through the passage. Well best laid plans, just at the most critical time the radar went down. It is 0300 hr in the morning, no moon, just flashing lights. Ernie had no choice but to wake me up. He took the light and aimed it at the land, and I told him which way to steer with the chart. We didn’t want to bring down the computer then restart the radar as if we lost both we would have nothing. We inched slowly along until we were safely out of any danger.  I then shut the computer down and brought it back up. No problem radar was working great. Tell me why do you get a glitch at the most inconvenient time?

This brought us out into the Gulf Stream. The Gulf Stream, together with its northern extension towards Europe, is a powerful, warm, and swift Atlantic current that originates at the tip of Florida, and follows the eastern coastlines of the United States to Newfoundland  before crossing the Atlantic Ocean. It is a river with currents to be reckoned with. You never travel with a wind direction of North as it kicks up very large waves sometimes called Elephants. We had one day to get er done...

It was a wonderful crossing until the last hour or so and we were thankful to be in Florida and to arrive when we did as the winds picked up and switched to the NE.

We transited the maze like canals of the rich and famous getting totally lost trying to find the marina.

We finally found our way and with much relief moored.
We decided to rent a car and do a little sight seeing. The Science Centre was a much enjoyable trip.

Kenny departed on the 7th and I will forever be grateful to him and his wife Paulette. I know Ken was smiling down on us and proud to see what a great friend he is.

Nancy and Mike Rooney came to visit for the night and after a wonderful meal and too much wine we had a game of Mexican Train. It was great to see them and I am grateful that they care enough about me to drive across the State to make sure I was ok. One thing from this experience is that I have learnt that Ken and I truly have many wonderful great friends.

Today Ernie and I took a trip to the Everglades and road an airboat to check out the alligators.
The Everglades are a fragile ecosystem that has been slowly been taken for land. The Everglades as I learned is actually a slow moving river not a swamp. Many fish start of in the river making their way to the Ocean.

Pam will arrive tomorrow and we will continue to explore Florida and see what we can learn about next.

We Have Made It

I will do a regular blog, but for those wondering WE MADE IT! We are in Ft. Lauderdale Florida now waiting for the Genesis to be put on the ship to be taken home. She will get the ride instead of being the ride.
More to come later this week. We just wanted everyone to know we are safe.

Andros Island Bahamas

Land Crab

Path Leading to Blue Hole with Pine Trees

A Blue Hole

I did not take these pictures they were copied off the net!

We kept on moving as the water could not have been more tranquil. We crossed the banks which is a very interesting thing for us coming from BC. The depths were no more than 15’. We have about a 3’ tide so one must be cautious where you travel.

Our weather router Herb told us that the weather was to change Thurs/Fri but more importantly that the winds were NE therefore we would not be able to cross the Gulf Stream. A decision was made to go to Fresh Creek, Andros where there is a marina with a pool and a small village. We have not stayed at a single marina since leaving Grenada we have anchored out and used the dinghy to get to shore. I prefer this anyways as it is cooler generally and cheaper. I however decided after a long haul like we have had, to treat ourselves is worth it. As it turns out there really isn’t much of a harbour here anyways to anchor in.

Andros Island Bahamas is over 100 miles in length and 40 miles wide. It is the largest island in the Bahamas. It has a population of 4500 people scattered across the island. 

We rented a car and toured the northern portion of the island as you can only tour the central and southern portion by boat and I have no desire to do extra boating at this time.

We can tell that we are out of the tropics as the vegetation and the sea birds have changed drastically. For the first time in a very long time there are seagulls and terns. The boobies seem to be missing and frigates seem fewer.

This island is filled with pine trees and deciduous trees appear similar to those in North America. You still see coconut trees and palm trees but banana trees are selectively planted in private yards for personal use. Wild tropical flowers like Birds of Paradise are not to be found. The temperatures have also gotten cooler. I just can’t wait to see how I feel when I am back in Canada.

Horse flies and mosquitoes are a nuisance. Luckily Ernie is not just here to protect me on this voyage but also to keep the bugs away. They like him and stay away from Kenny and I if he is near.

Andros’s west coast is a maze of wetlands and mud flats, is uninhabited but we are told that this is where the hibiscus and orchids grow. Unfortunately you cannot get there by car.

It is water that makes Andros special. Its corner of the ocean contains the third largest continuous barrier reef in the world, lying less than a mile off its east coast and running over 140 miles long. This made for a tense moment coming through the reef to get inside Fresh Creek.  The reef has significant geological and marine value. It contains low cays, massive coral, lagoons, estuaries, and blue holes. Outside the reef is the body of water known at the Ocean’s Tongue. It is very deep – 6000 ft - and contains some of the best fishing in the world. Not that it helped us any.

The US and British Navy have 4 research stations on the island doing underwater testing and evaluation programs. It is all top secret so who knows what they are doing.

Chickcharnies are a type of bird native to this island. They are tiny, feathered creatures that have enormous eyes. They hang upside down like bats in the trees. We didn’t see any and when I researched the subject more I believe they are make believe. But who knows.

Land crabs are another interesting creature on this island. It is said that when it is crab season (May – Oct.)  the economy booms here. Land crabs are an important food source throughout the Bahamas and the Caribbean. George told us that they get $40/doz for the crabs.

The land crabs start out in the ocean. The females travel from the forest or estuaries and lay 100,000’s of eggs in the ocean. There the eggs turning in larvae float in the ocean currents. They remain out at sea for about a month then return to land to live out their lives. There are holes everywhere.

We have seen these crabs elsewhere but didn’t realize that they got as big as they do or that they were eaten.

Andros also has more blue holes than anywhere else known on the earth.

Blue holes are under water submarine caves or underwater sinkholes. They are not great places to find fish as the circulation is bad within them.

The island's blue holes are water filled cave systems. There are blue holes in the ocean and inland. Two of the inland blue holes on Andros include Charlie's Blue Hole, reputedly first explored by Jacques-Yves Cousteau, and the larger Church's Blue Hole and Guardian Blue Hole. Kenny and Ernie went swimming in the blue hole close by. It was brackish water as it was both fed from fresh and ocean water. They said the visibility was not great and found nothing to see in the hole. It was to them just a swimming hole. I am sure if you dove the hole you would see the cave like structure.

Unfortunately the economy here is very linked to the American economy and abandoned homes are everywhere. There is not much work for these people so like so many other places the young people are heading to the bigger cities for work, returning for family functions or retirement.

We have been told that hopefully the weather will change in our favour Sun. It is only 27 hrs away and we will do it in one run if the weather and sea allows us to.

We are passing time by swimming in the pool, touring around, playing cards, Mexican train and last night a movie night aboard Genesis (which was nice not having a genset running in the background).

I am going to post this early just in case we get to leave on Sunday.

Go While the Going is Good

I will have to add pictures to this blog once I have internet.

The weather continued to keep us harbour bound. Our trips into Steve’s family restaurant became a daily event. The internet was free, the pool table was free. (I beat the boys). However the 100 peso meals added up along with the cervasas or vino. However it became a life line to talk to family and friends and helped me keep my spirits up.

The weather has not been in our favour until this Thursday morning. !0 boats escaped Luperon. It kept the navy busy and filled their wallets for at least one day.

The rules for entering and exiting harbours in the Dominican Republic are very interesting. You must go to the Comadancia (Navy), Harbour Authority and to wherever else they decide to send you. They generally will not let you leave a harbour before 0900 hr in the morning. This does not work for getting the best sea conditions. Therefore if you go in and pay a little towards their slush funds they give you the dispachio needed to get out of dodge. That’s the first pay off.  The DR has a problem with people trafficking;  Cubans trying to get to Puerto Rico and Haitians trying to get anywhere.  The navy must come to your boat when you arrive to inspect for human cargo and must come when you want to leave. This nominally would not pose a problem but the navy has no boats. Sometimes they get a fisherman to bring them out or they expect you to go get them then bring them back. This of course comes with a “Do you have something special for me?”  They don’t mean pops, more pesos in the form of American Dollars. Well it makes for blog info, so there you have it.

We departed Luperon at 0630 on Mar. 24^th and motored to Mayaguana, Bahamas past the Turks and Caicos. We stopped for lunch and to check fluid levels and continued on to Clarence Town, Bahamas where I sit and write this quickly. The water has been very pleasant.  It is the first time since leaving Grenada.  So, as the saying goes, “get going while the going is good.” You don’t have to tell me twice.

 We will fuel up have dinner then at 1900 hr Mar. 26 will continue on again overnight to the Cave Cays. This will bring us into the Exumas on the west side of the reefs allowing us to travel in any type of weather. We will no longer be in the Atlantic Ocean for awhile. We will have only 4 boating days after that, however we know what weather can do to a boater.

The water is beautiful colours and we are a little apprehensive about traveling in 6 – 12’ of water but that is what travelling the banks is all about.

Kenny finally landed a Dorado and a few other fish so he is one happy boy. I figure now that we are getting closer we will start catching fish because we will not be able to keep them to eat.

I am not sure what the plans are once we get to the Exumas tomorrow but I think we will slow down do some swimming, snorkelling and the boys want to try and catch lobsters with a handmade devise they have put together. Lets hope it works. A lobster dinner that doesn’t cost a fortune would be nice.

As many of you can tell I am itching to get to Port Everglades so that I do not have to worry about making it in time but I know it is important also to stop and smell the roses or fish or whatever I am to smell.

Luperon Dominican Republic

Typical Housing. Wooden homes with just bedrooms.  Motorcycles are the typical transportaion.

Wheres Waldo? Wheres the Iguana? Our Gecko has reappeared on the boat so I guess he didn't bail in Grenada. Poor guy must be freezing now.

A typical DR beach on the North Shore.

We all know that life has its bumps and potholes in the road but sometimes they feel more like craters and ditches.  What we worry about frequently never happens and if it is going to happen it just makes us unfit to deal with the problem at hand. Ken was the non worrier between us bringing me down to reality telling me not to worry. When he did worry he sure didn’t show me. Example the pirates.

This week I must thank many of you that have given me encouragement. As strong as you think I am I have a lot of moments when I am worried possible scarred.  I am not scarred of the sea more the time will pass and we do not make it to Florida in time. As one good friend said if you don’t make it in time it is just money. We can help you get it on the next boat. Immediately it reminded me of my grandfather saying the same thing. If money can fix the problem it is really not a problem.  I seem to have a lot of time these days to think of things in my past I have been shown and told.

So I find myself trying to realize if when you want something, don’t let yourself think what could go wrong. Be positive and think about the good things that could and will happen. Your attitude makes all the difference in the world. If I was negative Ken would just scowl and tell me to think positive. So now here I am doing mind games.

We are anchored in our last Dominican Republic anchorage before heading out across the Atlantic to Turks and Caicos then the Bahamas. We are and will be here probably until Wed. as the weather window slammed shut on us and so it is a waiting game.  We will not take any chances. Our weather guy said we could take a run yesterday but the seas would have been 12’ on the beam and the winds are howling at times here in the lagoon. SOOOOOOOOOO We wait.

The towns name is Luperon. It is a very poor town compared to what we have seen of the DR so far. The roads are made of dirt no concrete here. There are sidewalks. Most homes are made from wood that barely is standing. The homes have maybe one or two rooms for sleeping. The cooking is done outside generally using gathered wood. The towns people are so friendly non aggressive not trying to get dinero from the foreigners. Nice. The kids come running up to you with their holla and shaking your hand.

Luperon though a small rural town boasts markets and hardware stores, discos (can’t have enough of them), hospital, police, dentist and all the other amenities a civilized place needs. This town has everything you would want, including a gringo bar/restaurant with a pool and showers and free internet.

The anchorage is chock a block full of boats with depths of no more than 20’. It is in the mangroves keeping the winds and the water quite still.

There are now more American boats than any others  with Canadian boats following close behind. The flags of the world are less noticeable.  A shame really. We started to see this trend after St. Maarten when we headed into US waters. I do not believe this is a reflection on the Americans,  St Maarten  tends to be where boats leave from to head  to Europe.

The boating is changing as now talk is about heading home for so many of these boats. Most must be north of Hurricane Alley by Jun 1. So in a few weeks (2 – 3) one will see a real exodus from the Caribbean Islands. There are those that stick around going from Huricane hole to Huricane hole. Not unlike us in Mexico. 

We pass our time reading, playing Mexican Train and card games. The boys are doing a good job (most of the time) at keeping my mind occupied. Last night we had movie night on the Genesis which I think could have been the first since we started this trip. We may have had a movie one other night but it is not a common occurrence.

Ernie and I have just spent time going through charts to figure the route to Florida. It should be 8 more stops we think. That makes it seem much more manageable. Realistically doable.

Waiting for weather windows is always difficult but when you need to be somewhere by a certain time it naws at you a little.

We are taking walks surrounded by many butterflies to remind me to look at the beauty. I am sure once this trip is over I will have more time to reflect on the adventure we are having. Again thanks for all the encouragement.

The Catch Everyone Up to Speed.

Ernie, Me and Kenny with the Limon Falls Behind

The Anchorage in St. Maarten

The 3 of us on our very skinny horses going to the falls.

The last blog I wrote about Dominica and Guadeloupe. We were told by our weather router Herb that we should head to Antigua as this would give us a better angle for much of the rest of the trip. So off to Antigua we went. The seas were not kind again putting much tension on Genesis and her crew.

We however found a couple of nice anchorages, recovered and the following day headed on to St. Maarten/Martin.

FINALLY nice seas. I think we were all ready to abandon ship.

St Maarten/St Martin is a very unique island. It is all but 7 square miles. Half  being Dutch (I would say American) and the other side French. The French side very much retains it identity.

The whole island is a tax free haven thus to see mega yachts both power and sail is common. I would have to say there were at least 4000 boats in the small area. To add to this madness the Heinikien Regatta was on at the time. 1000's of drunken sailors having lots of fun. It was fun to watch.

We had a great meal on the french side then left in the early hours to continue on to the BVI's. Another wonderful calm crossing. Thankfully.

We stayed at an anchorage called The Bight on Norman Island. There were many other boats and now with the US flag.

We motored out of the anchorage at 0600 hr bypassing the US Virgin Islands and continuing on to Puerto Rico. We have traveled through many countries and now the joke begins.

The USA Border Security requires that you phone in as soon as you are in US waters. Unless you are American one tends not to have a US cell phone that works.

 We anchored in Bahia Honda for approximately an hour when the US navy came to tell us we must move as it was an abandoned navy base. We continued on for another 2 hrs to a beautiful bay. We left the next morning to get to Ponce. This is where the shit show began. Ponce is the 2nd largest city on Puerto Rico. It is where we would go to Immigration, Homeland Security and Customs. This is where we began to make mistakes. We took our garbage to land and disposed of it in the garbage bin. We walked up to Customs.

The Immigration guy asked right away if I had phoned in. I said no I had just gotten here and we came straight in. Wrong answer. You must phone before you come in. That would be a $3000 fine. Next he asked if I had garbage. I said yes and that we had disposed of it in the garbage reciprocal. That would be a $1000 fine. I send Kenny back to put it back into our dinghy. Then the insensitivity began and hit him back in the face. He looked at my registration papers and asked why I and not my husband was filling out the paperwork. I informed him that my husband had died, Kenny and Ernie were helping me get the boat back to the Florida to be shipped home. He had tears in his eyes then appologized told me that he would get things done quickly for me and if I needed anything I was to call him. The fines were dismissed.

We continued on to Cabo Rojo and went inland to phone Homeland Security then left at midnight to continue on to Dominica Rebublic.

The Mona Passage is reknowned for its adverse currents and winds. Well back to the aweful weather again. We arrived in Punta Cana where we thought we would rest for several hours get the engine working right again (air lock) and continue around midnight. The Navy had a different idea. The DR also wants to know where you are. The boys came aboard checked out that we were not smugglling either people or drugs then told us to continue on and say we did not stop there. We continued all night luckily to great weather. We arrived in Samana at 0900 hr. 35 hrs of steady cruising. We had maybe 10 mins. before the navy was on its way to check our dispachio and registration. We then headed into shore to do Customs and Immigratrion. No problems but very expensive.

 Arriving on shore I felt like we must have a bullseye on our foreheads. Instantly the dock boys are dragging you around to where you need to go. (Could have easily been done ourselves) It all comes at a price.

The next day we headed out on a tour that seem to be reasonable in price. No mention off all the extra costs. Anyways we toured a little of this penninsila. We took horses up to the headlands of a waterfall then had to climb further. We were in company of at least 100 people. No skinny dipping for Kenny this time.

We climbed over the mountain range to the beach area. Yep typical tourist area. Had a lunch on the beach then went to Sanchess were we visited with the local fishermen. This is not a tourist area and we paid real prices for the camarones. I bought 4 pounds and that will give us 5 meals.

We continued back into Samana and toured a church and a marine museum. This was very interesting. Just around the corner several ships from the 1700's are being recovered. A river has been running over the ships and much of the artifacts are intact.

So far, of the islands we have visited I like the DR. It seems to have a lot to offer. Eco, suntanning and it is Spanish. I am enjoying speaking the language again and I am sure that when I get home I will try and immerse myself in the language and do the ESL somewhere.

I would like to thank all those that have email or skyped me. My friends are helping me get through this.

I am trying really hard to focus on not what I have lost but what I gained from Ken in my life. When I see a butterfly I remind myself to look at the beauty and he tells me to keep being strong. It is all going to be fine and we are making good progress. Unfortunately the weather is changing and we will have to stay for a few days but I believe there is a reason. Catch up on sleep and get ready for the next step. Until next time.

Sanchess where the camarones are from.